Water heater repair

Leaks come from the relief valve, the drain valve, the supply connections, or the tank itself. The first three are repairable. A leak from the tank body means the tank has corroded through and needs replacing.

On electric heaters, a tripped breaker, failed element or thermostat are most common. On gas heaters, it's usually the pilot, thermocouple or igniter. A plumber can test each part in one visit.

Tank heaters commonly last around 8–12 years. If yours is in that range and needs a major part, replacement often makes more financial sense. The plumber can show you the age from the serial number.

Tank water heaters commonly last about 8–12 years and tankless units longer with regular descaling. The manufacture date is encoded in the serial number on the label.

Rumbling or popping is usually sediment at the bottom of the tank boiling as the burner or element heats through it. Flushing helps on a younger tank; heavy sediment in an older tank is a sign it's near the end of its life.

Sulfur smell in hot water only is typically a reaction between bacteria in the water and the tank's anode rod. Replacing the anode with a different type often solves it; it's more common with well water.

A temperature-and-pressure relief valve that drips is releasing excess pressure or has failed. Don't cap or plug it — have the thermostat, water pressure and expansion tank checked, and replace the valve if it's faulty.

National cost guides put the average around $606 (HomeAdvisor), with most homeowners paying roughly $222 to $990. Single-part repairs like an element or thermocouple often land around $150 to $350. These are national estimates, not quotes.

Occasional drips can mean the valve is worn. Regular discharge often points to thermal expansion, when heated water has nowhere to go because of a check valve or pressure-reducing valve on the supply. The fix is usually an expansion tank.