Frequently asked questions

A SteadWell dispatcher calls or texts you back to confirm the problem, your address and a time window. For emergencies, call instead of using the form — it's faster.

It depends on the job. Diagnostic visits are typically charged; replacement estimates often aren't. We'll tell you on the phone before anyone is scheduled.

Yes. Plumbing work is performed under a North Carolina plumbing contractor license, and South Carolina work under South Carolina licensing. Ask for the license number when you call — you can verify it with the state licensing board.

No. The towns on our locations pages are service areas — places we send plumbers to. We don't claim offices we don't have.

For some simple jobs we can give a range. Most plumbing prices depend on what's behind the wall, so we'd rather diagnose than guess. Each service page lists what affects the cost.

SteadWell Plumbing serves the Charlotte, NC metro: Charlotte and Mecklenburg County, the Lake Norman towns, Union, Cabarrus and Gaston counties, plus Fort Mill, Tega Cay and Rock Hill in York County, SC. The locations page lists every town.

Drain cleaning and hydro jetting, sewer camera inspection and sewer line repair, water heater repair and replacement including tankless, leak and slab leak detection, pipe repair and repiping, water line and pressure problems, toilets, faucets, disposals, shower valves, sump pumps, backflow testing, water filtration, inspections and remodel plumbing.

Shut off the water to the leaking fixture or the whole house, switch off power to any wet area, move valuables, and stop using drains if one is backing up. Take photos for insurance before cleaning up.

Clear the area under the sink or around the fixture, make sure the plumber can reach the water heater, main shutoff and any outdoor cleanout, and note when the problem started and what makes it worse.

Yes — owner-occupied homes and residential rentals. For rentals, we can coordinate access with tenants and send written findings to the owner or property manager.

Shut off the main water valve, then call a licensed plumber. If water reached electrical fixtures, turn off that circuit at the breaker. Call your insurer after the leak is stopped.

Repeat clogs usually mean the pipe has a defect that catches debris: roots, a sagging section (belly), heavy scale, or grease buildup that a cable only punched through. A camera inspection shows which.

It's safe for sound pipe of most materials. It is not appropriate for pipe that's already broken, separated or badly deteriorated — that's why we inspect with a camera first.

Yes. Plumbers clear sewer lines with a machine cable or hydro jetter, usually from an outdoor cleanout. A camera inspection afterward shows whether a defect caused the blockage.

No. It needs access at both ends, a pipe path without severe sags or collapses, and suitable soil. It usually costs more per foot but saves on restoring driveways and landscaping.

Leaks come from the relief valve, the drain valve, the supply connections, or the tank itself. The first three are repairable. A leak from the tank body means the tank has corroded through and needs replacing.

Replace it when the tank leaks, when a major repair is needed on a unit near 10+ years old, or when it can't keep up with demand. Rust in the hot water and heavy rumbling are signs it's close.

Tankless gives continuous hot water and takes less space, but costs more upfront and needs yearly maintenance. A tank is cheaper to install and simpler. The right answer depends on usage, fuel and install location.

Turn off every fixture and watch the water meter's leak indicator. If it moves, water is going somewhere. A steadily higher water bill is another common sign.

Most plumbers and many insurers recommend it. Polybutylene was widely used 1978–1995 and is prone to sudden failure. Some insurers limit coverage for homes that still have it.

Yes. Licensed plumbers repair and replace the service line from the meter to the house. The water utility handles the meter and the line on their side of it.

The most common causes are clogged aerators or showerheads, a failing pressure-reducing valve, a partially closed shutoff, hidden leaks, and old galvanized pipe narrowed by rust.

A running toilet is usually a flapper that no longer seals, a fill valve that doesn't shut off, or a float set too high so water spills into the overflow tube.

Quality faucets are usually worth repairing with a new cartridge. Replace when parts aren't available, the finish is failing, or the body itself is cracked.

The flywheel is jammed, usually by a hard object or fibrous food. With the power off, turn it from underneath with a hex key, remove the obstruction with tongs, then press reset.

The cartridge or valve seals are worn and no longer seal completely. Replacing the cartridge usually fixes it; turning the handle harder won't.

A hot-water slab leak should be dealt with quickly — it wastes energy, can damage flooring and can affect the soil under the foundation. Shut off the water heater's cold supply if the leak is on the hot side.

Every few months and before storm season: pour water into the pit until the float lifts, and confirm the pump starts, empties the pit and shuts off.

Backflow can pull fertilizers, stagnant water or chemicals into the public supply. Annual testing confirms the preventer still works. Check your utility's notice for the deadline and submission method.

Usually not. Charlotte-area municipal water is generally soft to moderately hard. Well water varies, so test before buying equipment.

They can if a hose is left connected, because water is trapped in the valve. Disconnect hoses before freezing weather.

Close it fully and open a faucet. If water still runs, or the handle won't turn, it needs replacing.

Yes. A home inspector covers the whole house at a general level. A plumber tests and identifies plumbing components in more depth and can camera the sewer line.

Usually yes. On a crawl space it's straightforward; on a slab the concrete must be cut and patched, which adds cost.